GAMES WORKSHOP Citadel Pot de Peinture - Shade Casandora Yellow (24ml)

Product Information

The only time I feel alive is when I'm painting. Vincent Van Gogh

…

A vivid alternative to Aethermatic Blue, this acts as a partner to Pylar Glacier, giving you even more choices in the blue range of the spectrum. Screaming Skull (bone) can be used as a highlight color to add depth to the yellow and create contrast between light and shadow. The toughest part about painting yellow, I find, is getting a rich and consistently smooth basecoat. This is where the color chosen for the base spray can really cut down on the amount of work you have to do. I prefer a darker, more "golden" yellow, over a bright "lemon" yellow, so I've selected Tamiya Camel Yellow for the base spray. Sitting next to Volupus Pink, but even richer, this colour comes close to the intensity of Screamer Pink, but with the unique flow of contrast.

Glazes are new and compliment the shades. There are four tones, one for each of the three basic colours and green. They are similar to washes, but lighter and thinner and they don’t settle as much in the recesses as washes do. They are meant to be used for tinting areas or to restore colours that have been overly highlighted. You can see a glaze with Lamenters Yellow on the picture below so you can compare the effect with Casandora Yellow above. As you’ll see in the images, I simply took an inexpensive synthetic brush and applied a heavy undiluted coat of the contrast paint over the model.

When you dry brush, this an opportunity to highlight surfaces. By adding more yellow on top of those raised surfaces, you are adding contrast. The recesses remain dark with a good dry brush. This dichotomy between light and dark adds to the overall “pop” of the model. I will also make liberal use of Lamenters Yellow if I feel that the colour isn't strong or saturated enough. But, I suppose now I’m relying on a new product…As you see with Citadel Contrast color, it speeds up the first base coat process by allowing you to apply it straight from the pot everywhere. For this project, I used an airbrush to coat my models with gray Vallejo surface primer in a spray booth. Need a brown that’s got the tan punch of Snakebite Leather but is stronger like Cygor Brown? Garaghak’s Sewer is your weapon of choice.a can of white primer is first (I like Duplicolor white sandable primer, rustoleum is also pretty alright) Lizzie: What a name! Perfect on Daemonettes and other Daemons of Slaanesh – you can apply this over a light skin tone to create gaunt and sunken flesh. It’s also fun to use over metallics to create a really unique tone. Small bits of gravel were added in front bottom area and on the greenstuff with superglue. Sand was put down with PVA glue over the green stuff and also under the ledge and around the bits of gravel. Then agrellan earth was spread across the front area that was still bare base.

Let your viewers’ eye travel over the model by adding interesting points at different parts of the model. If you do want to focus your painting efforts, I would suggest make sure the “face” is well-painted. The face carries the rest of the model in most cases. OPTIONAL STEPS This is why Games Workshop went the hard way and introduced new paint names for everything. This way they avert the outcry of frustrated people who unsuspectingly bought new paint pots only to find that they are totally different from their old ones despite sharing the same name. New names make it clear that you have to expect a completely new product. Last but not least, new paint names mean Games Workshop can strengthen their intellectual property by trademarking everything, thus making it harder for other manufacturers (Vallejo) to model their range after GW’s one (as they did with their Game Colour range). The new paint range – basic observations Runelord Brass (brass) is a metallic paint that can be used to add a touch of shine and realism to the model. Brass is a split-complementary color to yellow, which means that it is a color that sits on either side of the complementary color. When used in combination with Casandora Yellow and Naggaroth Night, it creates a balanced and visually interesting color combo. For most of my Imperial Fist army, I used regular acrylic model paints. But, then I discovered Citadel’s Contrast Colours, which speed up the base coating process. I review Citadel Contrast colors here.

Split

The models were primed with a product that is probably only available in the UK, Halfords grey primer. This is just a standard matt grey primer that gives a nice finish and is considerably cheaper than the GW option. Wilko do a similar one, and with a little research I’m sure wherever in the world you are you can find a cheap priming solution that works just as well. After that the whole mini was drybrushed lightly with Necron Compound all over with Emphasis being placed on Metallic Edges such as the Shoulders and Gorget. Thanks for the insight Lizzie! Many of these new paints differ from the bulk of the existing Contrast range in exciting new ways, opening up many possibilities for painters, new and old. The hexadecimal color code #fece5a is a medium light shade of yellow. In the RGB color model #fece5a is comprised of 99.61% red, 80.78% green and 35.29% blue. In the HSL color space #fece5a has a hue of 42° (degrees), 99% saturation and 67% lightness. This color has an approximate wavelength of 577.84 nm. Of course, first you need to have an airbrush and know how to use it. My current airbrush set for working with miniatures of all kinds. Top to bottom: Iwata HP-BH, Sotar 20/20, and my trusty (and crusty) Badger Patriot 105.

My tip here would be to apply your next coat of contrast color with a small pointed round brush (like a #0 or #1 size) that has stiff bristles. This will give you more control in smaller places on your model. Sure, you won’t cover as much surface area in a single application, but you’ll reduce the risk of making a mistake paint somewhere you don’t want to. True to this tradition, the worlds of Warhammer have featured deserts heavily. The famous Battle of Tallarn in the Horus Heresy takes place on the the eponymous planet, turned into an irradiated wasteland by the Iron Warriors. In the Old World, the lands of Araby and Khemri were based on North Africa and the Middle East, which have a large number of desert and semi-desert regions, and of course the Mortal Realms contain all kinds of locales – Aqshy, the Realm of Fire, is an obvious choice for a desert landscape, but any realm could feature them. Ghur is home to the Bone Desert for example. I'd be tempted to consider using something like, say, Mr. Color or Tamiya with lacquer thinner through an airbrush (if you have one) to get the initial yellow coat. Generally speaking, lacquer paints have much better coverage and play a lot nicer than acrylics, and I would imagine that would lessen the inherent problems with yellow somewhat. Mr. Color is an especially nice brand that sprays like a dream- use it with their levelling thinner to lessen the chances of pooling/orange peel. Tamiya works well with Mr. Color thinners too. I haven't actually tried airbrushing yellows from either company, but if their other paints I've used are anything to go by they should work well.

Blog Archive

This gives you a lot of freedom to experiment! You can go for the plain, empty wasteland style, or use scrub bushes and trees, and a wide range of colours. Below are a number of techniques our authors use to create their own desert bases – you can try using them, or take them as inspiration for your own. Step 6 – Drybrush Tyrant Skull. Tread carefully with this, as too much will stand out. Get some Tyrant Skull on your brush, wipe the vast majority off, and drybrush the base (including the stones) only until you just start seeing the paint become visible, and then immediately stop for that area. This will likely only happen after a couple strokes. Not everyone has an airbrush or wants to get one. They are a tool that can’t replace the feeling and control that a regular brush paint job can achieve (see why an airbrush is never going to be as cool or exciting as painting with a regular brush). Lizzie: Like many, painting yellow has always been a challenge for me. Not any more! Imperial Fist, alongside Ironjawz Yellow and Bad Moon Yellow, provides the perfect solution to your yellow painting needs. Spend the time to prepare your models for paint and save a lot of time later. 2. Apply a single coat of Yellow Citadel Color Contrast Paint