It's also worth noting that this will absolutely void your warranty, with Brooks expressly mentioning "riding a completely saturated saddle" in their warranty exceptions, so do so at your own risk. If you can this is all best done in a controlled environment. The absolute ideal would be on a turbo trainer at home, so you can stop once it has sagged to a degree you are happy with and no more. What's more, some saddles will sag faster than others; my Brooks Swallow formed within an hour, so the more careful and controlled you can be the better. A few short stints will be better in the long run than one long one where you overshoot the break-in point. While synthetic saddles come in a bewildering variety of shapes, sizes and widths, leather saddles are remarkably simple in comparison. For starters there is no real requirement for exact widths as your own personal anatomy will dictate the final form. Generally speaking, though the shape of your leather saddle will be dictated by your riding style. A more upright position for touring or commuting would require a bigger perch as more of your weight is placed on the saddle and less on the hands. In contrast, if you’re riding a very aggressive position you’ll need a narrower option to account for the forward rotation of the pelvis and the fact that more of your weight is supported by your arms. It’s now owned by part of a group of companies including Selle Royal and Fizik and this ownership has coincided with a significant expansion of the Brooks product range. It makes much more than just leather saddles and the fortunes of the company have prospered over the years thanks to the surge of interest in cycling and a wider audience, many appreciative of cycling's history and heritage. Brooks England, the traditional leather bicycle saddle maker, is one of the most iconic and legendary bicycle brands. Its products are the epitome of style and luxurious comfort.

The main reason I hear that puts people off using a leather saddle is the break-in period. There are horror stories aplenty, but it needn’t be as bad as all that. Each manufacturer has its own recommended system, and if you dive into any forum or message board there are a tonne of leather saddle fanaticists, each with their own secret to breaking in. I’ve no doubt the following will enrage some of them, but this is my go-to method for breaking in: One coat of leather conditioner focusing primarily on the underside of the saddle, and one very wet ride of no longer than two hours. It is worth noting that some manufacturers like Berthoud pre-apply a grease before sale to aid waterproofing, so you needn't add any yourself for the first year. Apply a small amount of Proofide to the finished top side of the leather, allowing it to permeate until dry. Polish off completely with a soft cloth to avoid getting any residual Proofide on your clothes. Also apply Proofide to the underside of the saddle. Leave this coating on to protect against dirt and moisture. Proofide may be used several times during the ‘breaking-in’ period and periodically thereafter. Do not overuse. The Brooks Imperial is an extreme example, but leather saddles are going to bother the weight weenies (Image credit: Will Jones) If the items we have sent you are faulty, damaged or not as we described, we will cover the cost of collection and the delivery of the correct item. Proofide and other products are primarily leather conditioners, not waterproofing agents, and should be used sparingly (Image credit: Will Jones) How to care for a leather saddleBrooks saddles ship out with a little sachet of ‘Proofide’. There’s a relatively common misapprehension that this is a waterproofing treatment, given its greasy nature, but it’s a leather conditioner. It will add waterproof qualities, but its job is to soften the leather to aid the break-in process. It should be used sparingly, as overdoing it will over-soften the leather upper and eventually lead to sagging over and above that which is optimal. Saddle loops mean extra baggage capabilities (Image credit: Will Jones) Is it hard to break in a leather saddle? Now, contrary to what I’ve said above, leather saddles don’t really like getting wet, and you should do your best to protect them from the rain as much as possible. Fortunately, when you’re sitting on one you are doing a pretty good job of protecting the upper from the rain. The underside however is very vulnerable to tyre spray, and as such it’s recommended you use mudguards. If like me, you think mudguards are a vibe then this won’t concern you much, and you should take it as confirmation that you are also a person of great taste and distinction. If however you can't, or won't, run fenders then your options are a saddle cover, or a staunch refusal to ride in the rain. Maintaining your Saddle will ensure that it becomes comfortable and durable. Proofide is the ONLY substance that should be used to care for your leather saddle. Carefully formulated from special ingredients to condition, preserve and showerproof, helping protect the leather supple and to keep it supple. With regular use, your saddle will adapt to your body and retain its beauty, comfort and support. A new saddle should be treated at least once to help to assist the ‘breaking-in’ process and protect the saddle against the elements. Never apply Proofide to a wet saddle. A slight, but noticeable upward tilt is advantageous to keep you in the ideal position when using a leather saddle (Image credit: Will Jones) Positioning and setup

Our leather saddles come in different shapes and styles depending on what kind of bike or riding position. For example, a wider saddle with springs is ideal for an upright, 90-degree posture. Middle widths are often used for touring or commuting when the spinal angle of the rider is in a 45 to 60 degrees position. As a general rule, the more athletic the riding position, the narrower the saddle. Why do I need to break in my leather saddle? Many models are available with or without a cutout. In my experience, these aren’t as beneficial as they are for synthetic models, as, once broken in they're essentially redundant. However, they do make for a saddle with a little more initial give, as the removal of the central material allows the sides of the upper to sag inwards a touch, which can cause the side wings to flare out. This is why you’ll often see saddles with cutouts having a web of cord under to hold the sides in place. Perhaps think of them less as relief channels, and more as break in relief.

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At 360g it’s still hardly featherweight, but a lot lighter than the 500+g of steel-railed Brooks saddles like the Professional. You don’t make a saddle like this because anyone really cares about those 150 grams – they’d buy a genuinely light saddle if they did – you do it because you can. After a few hundred kilometers of riding, it seems to be working. The Swallow is getting more comfortable, though it’s definitely on the firm side. It feels initially harsh, but it gets better in the short run, and should get very much better in the long run, after lots of use and a few more applications of the supplied Proofide polish and conditioner. (Incidentally, Chris Juden of the CTC has some good advice on caring for Brooks saddles.)

As with any saddle you want to make sure your weight is in the right place. One thing you’ll notice in pictures of bikes with leather saddles is they are often run with a slight nose-up tilt. Thanks to the leather uppers being quite slippery the upward tilt ensures you slide rearwards to a happy resting place where your thighs meet the flare at the rear. A flat setup, or worse a downward tilt, would see you sliding forwards so that your soft tissue is resting on the narrow nose, which isn’t particularly pleasant. Buying second hand More than just traditional Brooks leather saddles, the range also includes modern vulcanised saddles, helmets, bags, bar tape, tools, helmets and much more. Here then is an overview of the Brooks product range.