The new book was well under way before the pandemic, but Jones found herself tinkering with and even entirely reworking some of the recipes because of her experiences in lockdown. There is still page after page of bright vegetarian recipes with punchy flavours that casually globe-trot from Laos to Greece. It is the best cookbook of any type that I have discovered in a very long time - the recipes are amazing, delicious, exciting, sustainable, creative and fresh. Jones – who began her career working with Jamie Oliver – says she is “an ambitious person … quite bad at celebrating my successes”. Award-winning cook Anna Jones blazes the trail again for how we all want to cook now: quick, sustainably and stylishly.

The great thing about this book is I can already congratulate people,” she says, “because if they bought a vegetarian book, then they are doing the most impactful thing they can, in terms of a diet to help the climate. In a 28cm baking dish (I use a round one), toss the leeks with the olive oil, half the lemon juice, the coriander, fennel and chilli and season well with salt and pepper.

When Anna Jones looks back at her first three cookbooks, starting with 2014’s A Modern Way to Eat, she wonders if she might have been too “gentle”. Add the remaining ingredients, apart from 2 of the spring onions, the lemon juice, soy sauce, noodles and chilli oil. There are one-tray dinners, like a baked dahl with tamarind-glazed sweet potato, quick dishes like tahini broccoli on toast, one-pot soups and stews like Persian noodle as well as one-pan fritters and pancakes such as golden rosti with ancho chilli chutney. She has spent almost three years on One and that time has gone into simplifying recipes, attempting to minimise food waste, and offer sustainable choices and value for money.

Each recipe in Jones’s fourth cookbook can be made in a single pot, pan, or tray, and comes with suggested tweaks for making vegetarian dishes fully plant-based. There are at least another 10 recipes I plan to make soon, and it's very rare for any cookbook to have that many appealing recipes. Everything I've made has been delicious, and it's perfect if you want quick, tasty, healthy, minimal-hassle meals.

Better cooks maybe, but Jones also admits there have certainly been moments during the past year where she has felt jaded in the kitchen. This is the first vegetarian cookbook that I have tried that doesn’t make me feel I am missing something - quite the opposite! My love affair with it was cemented when making stuffed agnolotti, caramelle and everything in between in restaurant kitchens, but it started with something simpler: my mum’s lasagna.

Add the cumin, coriander and mustard seeds and when the mustard seeds start to pop, stir in the ground turmeric and cardamom. This is a book where thought meets practical action meets deliciousness: where what we eat is no longer about how to look after and delight ourselves but how to look after and protect our planet.Really it is the book I would leave if I ran a villa, airbnb or similar where a party of people might be happy to prepare and feast on expensive, time-consuming but largely delicious dishes. My favourite recipes so far have been Muhammara Chickpea Stew, Lemon and Cardamom Dhal (see photo), Carrot and Sesame Pancakes, Cashew Nut Pakoras with Green Dipping Sauce (see photo). It’s a soup I make all year, as it’s both comforting in winter and vibrant enough to eat on a colder spring or summer day too (think borscht). I do love her so am sorry to hear that, but kind of sorrier that it means a lack of faith in her many and varied recipes and what she herself preaches.

Add 1 tablespoon of the ghee or coconut oil to a large pan, add the onion and cook for 10 minutes over a medium heat until soft and sweet. Spoon a quarter of the sauce into an ovenproof dish roughly 8 inches x 12 inches/20 cm x 30 cm (I use an oval roughly the same size), tear over a third of one of the balls of mozzarella, then cover with pasta sheets. In this exciting new collection of over 200 simple recipes, Anna Jones limits the pans and simplifies the ingredients for all-in-one dinners that keep things fast and easy.Three stars because there is nothing fundamentally wrong with book, but it’s one of those that gets bought then is rarely used. I am sure it is a long way from the traditional recipe but it has all the things I want to eat with orzo.