Games Workshop Citadel Pot de Peinture - Contrast Akhelian Green (18ml)

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Overall, I really enjoyed the opportunity to paint each of the Traitor Legions, and I’ve added a new skill to my hobby arsenal. I’m very keen now to begin another new Legion, and hopefully, with what I’ve learned in the last few weeks I can speed paint an army to readiness and still maintain a great finishing standard.

Next, I laid down some basic skin tones, ranging from Model Color Royal Purple (shadow), to Pink Horror (midtone), up to Kislev Flesh (highlight). It’s pretty desaturated at this point, but the gist is there. The Daemons of Slaanesh are twisted representations of desire and perversion, often intersexed and with lithe forms that move in beguiling ways. The daemons of Slaanesh thrive on temptation and obsession, feeding on mortals’ pride. Step 1, of course, is to assemble all required tools – I set up here with the sprue for the Skorpekh and roughly the set of paints I thought I’d need. These factions were chosen because they all have a connection to magic, the supernatural, or the unusual, which lends itself well to the unique qualities of the Akhelian Green paint. By using this color in their painting schemes, hobbyists can create models that are both striking and true to the thematic elements of the armies they represent. Akhelian Green Colour Schemes & Combinations Citadel Colour’s Akhelian Green is a deep, vibrant color that is perfect for creating a variety of aquatic effects. This water-inspired green has a strong pigment concentration and a smooth consistency, making it an ideal choice for both base coats and layers. It is an acrylic paint that dries to a flat, matt finish, which makes it an excellent option for creating a realistic look on miniatures, especially for those who are just starting with miniature painting. Akhelian Green offers good coverage and is part of the foundation colors for Citadel Colour, making it a versatile and essential addition to any miniature painter’s palette. What Armies of Chaos to paint with Akhelian GreenKantor Blue– A dark blue color that complements the bright green hue of Akhelian Green. It can be used for shadows or as a base color.

Pretty much the entirety of this step is coating the areas you want colourshifted with your paint of choice. When I did the Epitome above I used GreenStuffWorld’s Pinky Blue, but since I can’t condone that company any more I recommend Turbo Dork’s 3D Glasses, or any similar pink/purple/blue gradient. Highlight the skin with your preferred off-white, I find either VMC Ghost Grey or Citadel Palid Wych Flesh works well. Build it up over several thin-ass layers so not to lose the unnatural tones we built up. Soft-drybrushing can work well here as well. Call of Chaos by Rob Sanders follows a Slaaneshi warlord through an encounter with the Stormcast Eternals.

Death Guard

For monopose models where it’s important to keep parts together, but I still want to do clipping and cleaning of plastic in a batch, I tend to flip the bases upside down and keep the parts together in those once they’re cleaned. These models have been great fun to work on thus far, and I’m looking forward to working on the Reanimator and Skorpekh Lord next.

I’d been looking forward to getting my hands on the Lumineth models ever since I learnt they were on their way to the Mortal Realms, and they do not disappoint! The sculpts are fantastic. I keep discovering little details, like the heel down position of the Vanari Dawnriders, which really emphasise what a sophisticated and well-trained force they are.The ‘functional’ metals – so things on the shield, spear, etc. – are based in Balthasar Gold, highlighted with Sycorax Bronze and then washed all over with Agrax Earthshade gloss. For Indomitus, I decided I wanted to start out with the Skorpekh Destroyers, as they’re an exciting new unit and I thought they’d provide a decent canvas to work on. The Skorpekh Lord is also the unit I’m most excited by on a tactical level, so warming up on the Destroyers seemed like a good plan! I’m not going to go through as much of a step by step on the rest of the models, as fundamentally I mostly use the same recipes again, but there are a few extra bits on some of them. The Cryptothralls basically use exactly the same as the above with nothing really extra, so we’ll get them out of the way first. If you need to shade the colourshift, be very ginger and only fill the recesses, as they can react unpredictably to washes/shades. The spear shaft is just Aggarose Dunes Contrast. Contrast paints don’t do so well on flat surfaces, but I don’t mind a little pooling or brush marks on something that’s supposed to have texture, like wood or leather.