The best makers use loopwheeled cotton. What selvedge is to denim, loopwheel is to cotton, and it’s even easier to spot once you know what to look for. Loopwheeled cotton is woven around a cylinder, so it has a huge advantage over other forms of cotton: no side seams. Once you’ve ditched the side seams, the premium you pay for loopwheeled tees and henleys (and that trademark tubular fit) is more than worth it. Why are henleys called henleys? You might suspect that the name has English roots, and you’d be correct. Early in the nineteenth century, competitive rowers in the small Oxfordshire town of Henley on Thames adopted short-sleeved versions of the half-buttoned shirts. Each year, at the Henley Royal Regatta, it became practice for the losing squad to give their shirts to the victors. Okayama Denim ships from Japan. If you’re looking for other places to buy Loop & Weft, try Blue in Green (USA), Those That Know (UK)

Loop & Weft is relatively new to the scene. They might not have the vintage bonafides of a Merz, but what they do have is a clear passion for their craft. Founded by denim veteran Ryota Seguchi in 2011, the company started with a clear vision: assemble a line of meticulously constructed cotton garments that will pair perfectly with raw denim. Well-Made Essentials » Henleys Buying Guide to Well-Made and Essential Henleys Every Denimhead Should ConsiderOther Merz b. Schwanen henleys to consider: 206 Henley (fewer vintage details), 204 Henley (roomier version of the 206), TR206 Good Training Henley (sporting henley with Merz branding) Almost always worn unbuttoned, the two ends of the round collar, when loose, lend a distinctively rugged touch to any look—but especially if your style is steeped in vintage workwear. Rugged yet refined: Take a short-sleeve henley shirt in a light color with a textured weave. Add your favorite summer-weight navy blazer, one with soft shoulders and no lining. Pair with light wash jeans and leather Chelsea boots. Provided it can do this, it can look amazing under soft twills or hard denims. It can join forces with just about any well-made long-sleeved top, or it can be a stand-alone piece on warmer days. However you wear it and whatever you pair it with, you’ll be glad that you spent a bit of time (and a bit of money) finding a good one.

Their 100% cotton henley, like the SDA, is a simple, no-frills design. The cuffs don’t announce themselves as anything special, and the white is as basic as it comes. This thing really shines in the other details, though. If you want the best selection, try one that specialises in vintage workwear. They’re the ones most likely to have at least a few of the well-made and essential henleys we’ve included on this list.Merz b. Schwanen ships from Germany. If you’re looking for other places to buy Merz, try: Franklin & Poe (USA), Self Edge (USA), Burg & Schild (Germany), Maplestore (Australia), Lost & Found (Canada), Son of a Stag (UK) Other Real McCoy’s henleys to consider: USN Wool Henley Undershirt (warm and military-grade tough), Double Diamond Eyelet Knit Henley (looks a thousand years old brand new), Double Diamond Wale Knit Henley (micro-rib classic) As one of the Osaka Five, Studio D’Artisan is a name that is perfectly at home on any of our essential lists. They helped put Japanese denim on the map, and they continue, year after year, to produce landmark, category-leading pieces. Their ultra-soft white henley in Suvin Gold cotton is a perfect example of this.

For the henley to be truly adaptable, it needs to be well made. The cuffs keep their shape, and the collar doesn’t wilt like a slice of processed cheese. For the henley to work its magic, it needs to have a little bit of heft, and it needs to be prepared to go the distance with us. Other PBJ henleys to consider: Hemp Blend Henley (with horizontal stripes) available in Indigo x Blue and Indigo x Red Finally, the colour is important here. A crisp, white henley is a must for some folks, but we’re keener on off-whites, vibrant blues, and textured greys. You won’t see any striped patterns on the list below, but this doesn’t mean that patterns are out. The best makers, though, tend to work their magic with solid colours and simple palettes. There should be considerable weight to the garment. This isn’t soft-as-silk cotton. Yes, it’s soft and comfortable, but it’s also a warmth-giving base layer. The knit should feel extremely breathable. A low-tension weave will be the mediating layer between your skin and the air around you. This breathability is key to temperature, which is key to comfort. In the kingdom of shirts, the henley is the baron of brawn. It’s the most rugged of the lot. It's Ryan Gosling in Drive, his white henley stained with grease at the auto shop; it's cool and effortless, nonchalant and casual, the easiest thing in your wardrobe to shrug on and style.Stuff ships from Germany. If they’re sold out, or if you’re looking for other places to buy Phigvel, try: Nakamuraya (USA), Lieutenant & Co (Australia), directly from Phigvel (Japan) We’re leading off with Merz B. Schwanen’s version of the henley because their cotton basics are first and last on many well-made lists. Merz is one of only factories in the world (the others being in Japan) that produce authentic loopwheeled cotton, and this means that their tees, henleys, and sweatshirts are in high demand. You might already be incorporating a henley or two into your looks. If this is an area of your wardrobe where you’ve settled for mass-market, the henley is probably not doing much more than keeping you warm (and even that might be a stretch). When not just any blue will do, it’s got to be Pure Blue Japan. They are the undisputed world champions when it comes to textured, vibrant blues. Though their reputation is largely based on their slubby and character-drenched denim, they’ve really upped their basic game in recent years. Their slubby tees and longsleeves have leapt off the shelves, and it’s not hard to see why when you get up close with one.