Professional Rust Proofing/Wax Injection Gun for Underseal & Waxoyl etc WS1

Product Information

This did not improve the sink/kitchen area one little jot, .....ever tried holding a 'waxoiled cat' in a sink with water and rags, and especially when cat does not enjoy it ? Remote areas/Scottish Highlands and non-UK Mainland areas may be subject to additional charges and a longer delivery time. This is determined by our couriers not Rustbuster. Long term, it forms a semi-solid skin of wax (demi-semi-solid in average Scottish temperatures) under which rust continues. It sat there and looked at me the way only a cat can... it sniffed (unapprovingly) the dripped waxoil, and I said… Nowadays though theres better things available, Dinitrol is good, I used this in my Capri and so far had no rust at all in all treated areas. But I now use Bilt Hamber Dynax s50, it is superb stuff, and again ive not had any rust in treated areas.

I have a custom built pressure washer of enormous power which can blast off the rust. See this clip: Like anything else, you have to prepare properly and apply it properly. It's no good just slapping it on crusty surface rust as that'll just fall off. Do some prep work first, take the "clumps" off and cover the rust hiding underneath those big clumps. There are also different kinds of treatments. Plain old Waxoyl is water resistant but will wash off over the space of 4-6 months, sooner if you make a habit of driving through a lot of standing water. There's also Underbody Seal with Waxoyl added. I decided to use a Waxoil gun and my compressor, I had the propane burner on in the workshop since 3.00pm flat out and it was like the sahara, in fact it was so hot I decided a T-shirt and shorts was the dress code. Best yo re-apply it once every few years to make sure all the stone chips and scuffs are covered and sealed.

Over the top of existing undersealer

Waxoil is good at what it does, but it's no good spraying it over rust! The waxoil will seal the rust alright, but it also trap the existing moisture (doesn't need much - there is enough moisture in the air) and oxygen (rust is an OXIDE remember - this oxygen can be scavanged from existing rust / ferrous oxide III) and the rust will still grow and spread - though at a slightly slower pace. Clean up all rust before spraying waxoil over it

hour later cat was scrubbed and very peed off with me, I’ve had 2 baths, and also cleaned the bath it seems that the bath will not be rusty...scrubbed kitchen floor, sink, worktop Now theres hardly any rust on the body just a bit on the rear valance, so my primary concern is to get it thoughrally protected so i dont have to start doing expencive resto jobs on it in the near future. True story that has been on the LR forums for a few years... anyone who's had dripping Waxoyl in the face while DIYing the job will appreciate this... I also had the real benefit that SWMBO was out so I had since 3.00pm been shoving the 2 gallon cans into the sink with near boiling water. I should have known things were going to go “slightly wrong” when I started.Diesel is slightly more available and has a higher molecular weight than kerosene so its slightly more protective in its own right, but it smells unpleasant and stings the eyes, so I prefer kerosene. White spirit would evaporate if one wanted to build up multiple sprayings, as would water. when it's done fill the pot, but make sure the emulsion holes[little holes you drilled in the tube] are in air, bolt the top on[bit of paper will do as gasket] connect the blow gun up and squirt I don’t know much about compressors. This was my first time using one. All I know is that the maximum value on the dial was about 115psi (about 8 bar) which is more than enough for this job – I know because I tested it out and it got incredibly messy. So i'm in work tonight (halfords) and thinking about buying a tub of waxoyl and the spray gun for it. Is this the best way to get good coverage and get into all the hidden areas? (under wings, under scuttle, underside)