Holga 135BC 35mm Bent Corners Film Camera

Product Information

The 120GN has a glass lens, while the 120FN has a built-in flash. Simple maths then tells you a 120GFN has a glass lens and a flash. In comparison to the Holga 135bc, the Diana Mini results are much softer and dreamier... with subtle contrasts and grain and less vignetting. Yet the Diana Mini is also capable of beautiful colours and focusing, everything just seems more subtle in comparison. With the half frame option you can take double the amount of photos per roll, but I think this camera produces it's best results with the square format. Wan’s “107 No Man Islands” exhibition, made up of a 30-metre scroll of Holga images, at City Hall in February. Picture: Simon Wan Chi-chung Set the ISO of your film by turning the ISO dial on the top of the camera to match your film’s ISO rating. Focus your camera

That seems like a lot of negativity, but it’s important to be aware of how shooting your Holga can go wrong. You’re not going to get lost in a mountain of features and options like you might with other cameras. This is more about getting good shots by avoiding the pitfalls. Right here we have a slightly miniaturized version of the original medium format Holga. Like its older sibling, it’s got an all-plastic lens, two shutter settings, and two aperture settings. Its advance and shutter are uncoupled- meaning that you can shoot unlimited multiple exposures on the same frame. Its images are dripping with color, contrast, a slight softness, and a whole lot of soul. For that classic Holga look, with the ease of 35mm film development, this guy can’t be beat! Overview Though I wouldn't say that this is a deciding factor - it's worth mentioning that the Diana Mini really is indeed mini and that it can be quite fiddly at times whilst the Holga 135 in comparison feels much chunkier and sturdier. Because it’s a plastic camera it is also lightweight and easy to carry around. This way it serves as a great option for travel photography or for taking photos on the go. Nostalgia Keeping the costs of buying a Holga to a minimum meant having minimal technical features, minimal focusing ability, minimal light seals, minimal sharpness outside the centre of your photographs, and minimal chance of your results turning out exactly as you’d hoped.

The word pivot is used a lot in tech and start-up circles today, but it’s really nothing new. In fact, it’s exactly what Holga did when their Chinese dream died. I had no idea how to use a Holga until I got my hands on this one, and there were a few things about it that were different to what I usually shoot. If you’ve never played with one either but fancy doing so, there’ll be things you also need to know.

It’s also recommended that you tape up anywhere that may allow light to leak in. This could be pretty much anywhere, although the red film window is often said to be particularly vulnerable. But when it came to buying my first Lomo camera, a few months later, it was not the SuperSampler that I seriously considered putting money on. No, I was very certain it had to be a ‘proper’ camera. Something with a viewfinder that I could see through so I didn’t feel completely at the mercy of the photo-gods! The Holga 135BC TLR allows all these feelings while shooting: the viewing window is clear and big enough to compose your shots, and for more precision, you have the rectangular frame of the picture inside the viewing glass and a little circle inside it too. This little circle, not exactly in the middle of the rectangular frame, shows you where the center of the image will be when you’re shooting close. In other words, it’s a kind of parallax correction, as the viewing lens is above the shooting lens, and for close-up shots this makes a little modification between what you frame and what the shooting lens takes on the film… You can also shoot easily from the ground or in vertical mode by turning the camera and having the viewing lens on your left or right side, or even hold the camera upside down above your head…. not always easy to frame like that, but it’s still ok!As explained earlier, there’s definitely a Holga look that these cameras give your photographs. The softness, the vignettes, and the unpredictable light leaks. For most people who shoot a Holga, that’s the whole point. Next to the tripod mount is a switch that technically allows you to change the shutter speed, although it only gives you two options. N is normal, which is said to be around 1/100 of a second, and B is bulb, which keeps the shutter open until you tell it to close again. While I can see the obvious benefits of 120 film over 35mm in the image quality even the Holga gave me, I don’t have any real yearning to buy any medium format camera. Not yet. Although I remember saying that about all film cameras not too long ago. The Roniflex turned out to be no different on all levels than the barclaycard Visa Camera. Yes setting the aperture is more intuitive and you certainly get more options but the viewfinder is over magnified and truly rubbish and only serves to give a rough idea of the centre of a shot. Test shot on Roniflex X3000 with AVP200 So the Roniflex loses focal options, bulb and cable but does add 4 aperture points. Those aperture points are shown in both numbers and weather symbols for 100 ISO. It also is in the collection of Museum of Design in Plastics (MoDiP) !

There were a couple of other things about the image quality and qualities that surprised me though. And I mean surprised me with how good they were.Okay shotwise the answer was clear. Whilst the Roniflex had better exposure range the lens was weaker and softer for outdoor shots. Unsurprisingly it had less vignetting than the 135BC . Holga 135BC Test Shot mid distance with AVP200 You’ll also need to remember to wind the film on to the next exposure after each shot. The Holga won’t stop you from shooting double exposures if you don’t. You use that red film window to know how far to wind it on each time. Basically until the next number shows.