Doctor Who - 12" Radio Control Dalek Thay

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Many years ago, the Daleks sent out thousands of egg-shaped Progenitors containing the genetic coding of the race, so that new Daleks could be created 122 1 Sep 2013 Doctor Who Remote Control Inflatable Dalek One thing I forgot to mention, I wanted to insert a small switch in between the last 2 outer layers to switch the under chassis lighting on and off. I did this by cutting a small hole though all 3 layers before fitting to the base. This was done at the rear of the Dalek, just below the maintenance panel. The switch was glued between the 2nd and 3rd layer keeping the switch flush with the outer layer. B. Cut and bear the ends of 4 lengths of the thin electrical wire almost twice the length of the disused marker pen. Make a small pilot hole in the top center of the lid and insert a screw. Then twist a small peace of foam on to the screw.

I needed to make a wheel for the pulley system to work the eye stalk. The motor had a small white cog fixed to the motor drive shaft. Using a flat top lid from another deodorant can, I cut around the sides of the lid and cut out the flat top part of the lid. I then punctured a small hole through the center and another near the outside of the wheel, and with a craft knife carefully cut out some small teeth in the center hole to fit around the motor cog. Then i squeezed the lid on to the cog and applied a small drop of super glue. Before fitting, get the eye stalk and place it on your work surface the right way up (so your camera view wont be up side down) then with a screw measuring about 8 to 10cm's long, screw it in to the middle edge of the pivot (6 to 8 turns should do it), about 3/4 of the way up so the screw protrudes about 45 degrees facing up. This will be the counter leaver for the eye stalk. Then using a length of electrical wire, tie around the screw as close to the screw head as you can. Cut a little peace of duct tape and wrap around the screw and wire knot to stop the wire slipping down the screw. To attach the head, apply some blobs of grab adhesive to the top of all 6 of the PVC foam supports and rest the head down on to them, applying a little pressure downward, insuring the head is on straight and even all the way around, then leave to set. One little thing you can do now if you had to use more than one peace for the final layer, is to use a little more adhesive, put some on your finger, and rub over all the joins to eventually make it look like one peace . When finished, leave overnight. Now repeat the process, this time around the base just above the bumper. When the base is complete, go panel by panel adding the final two spheres (four on the two larger side panels), making sure they are evenly spaced down and across the skirt panels. Done.

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Using the dessert / breakfast dish used earlier to make the disk fitted above the skirt section, and some cereal box type cardboard, mark and cut out 5 disks. Now with 4 of the disks, use a smaller plate to mark, then cut out an inner circle to make rings about 3cm deep. The 5th disc leave whole. Truth be told, when I made this tube axle, I only made it about half the length mentioned, as can be seen in the photos. This was because my original plan was to make the chest/weapons section rotate interdependently to the lower body and head like the Daleks in the 21st century episodes, but I had a change of heart. After watching "Asylum of the Daleks" I had a thought. As I only had 2 motor's to use, one to rotate the chest and one to rotate the head, "I want the eye stalk to go up and down". So that's what I was going to do. Because of this, I now had to extend the length of the tube to reach the base of the head and now have a fixed chest like the older Daleks from the 20th century episodes. What was need to be done now was to create some kind of support frame to take the weight of the body, chest, head and mechanisms. I had to keep the overall weight of the Darlek build down, simply because the tank was kinda old and after some testing, found out that it couldn't take too much weight, as it would not turn properly and the cogs connected to the drive motors would start to slip and make a nasty grinding noise. Not cool. I will give steps on how I made this frame, but there is probably a better, neater way of doing so.

With the camera, it had 2 small PC boards, 1 with the on/off switch, charging port and battery, and the other connected to the camera lens and microphone. They were connected by 4 small wires with a small, plug which I had to cut and extend. If you decide to use a camera, please bear in mind that it will probably differ to the one I used, and the wiring may be different to what is mentioned below. Now you can enter into a series of voice activated modes. To start with let's look at the extensive memory databank that the Dalek carries. To do this you must activate the Dalek by saying: "Dalek." Wait for it to say: "Yes" and then you have to say: "Do you recognise..." (wait for iris stalk to flash) and then say the name of a Doctor Who character or creature. If the Dalek recognises what you say it will tell you something about it. For example, if you say: "The Doctor" it starts ranting about him, or if you say: "The Emperor" it starts to shake as it tells you how powerful he is.Cut out a 3cm tall thin cardboard strip ( it can be done in 2 parts like the chest cover), cut out a small section to go around underneath the weapons panel, pipe some more grab adhesive around the bands and attach to the bottom part of the chest, and rub a little bit more over any joins.

Grab yourself another peace of corrugated cardboard. You will now want to make similar to what you did for the base plate, only smaller, with different measurements to almost form a hexagon type shape and cutting a hole in the middle for the center tube axle to fit through. Here are the measurements I ended up using. Get hold of the grab adhesive and squeeze out a thin piping along the outside of the supports (Only do half of the struts at a time) then carefully place the outer panel on to the struts, gently squeeze together, moving the panel if you need to before it sets. You will have a few minutes to do this before it does set. If (like I had) your 2 outer panels overlap, not to worry. Simply add a bit more adhesive and overlap them. Then finish off by rubbing a little more adhesive over the seams to make a smooth finish. I used a Bluetooth sun visor car kit and my iPhone. The speaker was small enough to fit inside the inspection panel and didn't cause any obstructions to the tank turret which turns the head. I made a second battery compartment made from cardboard, attached it on the top of the turret, and placed the main battery in to it. I now used the original compartment I made to rest the speaker in to it (as seen in the second photo).Now comes another fiddly bit. It can be done yourself, but having another pair of hands will make life much easier. Before the head is permanently attached to the ring section, we need to fix the pulley wire coming from the eye stalk counter lever, to the wheel on the motor described in step 8.

Condition: Some new & used collectables. All items are in good condition please see photos & descriptions for more details When dry, gather all the balls and remove all the wire hooks. Now with a sharp craft knife, cut down the center of each ball as straight as possible, making equal size halves, starting where the little hole is where the wire hook was poking in.

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Now using a thinner peace of cardboard like a cereal box (or pizza box like I did), you want to cut out some strips that will cover the sides to hide the wheels and to attach some under chassis lighting if you wish. The measurements I used were 3 an a half centimeters deep leaving 1.5cm ground clearance, and enough cardboard to go all the way around the base plate made previously. This fully functional radio controlled Dalek Ironside has full 360 degree movement control, a built in infrared combat system which allows you to use two Daleks… 76 8 Jul 2010 Character Infrared Battle Radio Controlled Dalek One at a time, poke the bent ends of the wire in to the pilot holes, enough that the length of the wire sits above the pen shaft about 1cm, then add a small drop of super glue to each hole to secure the wire in place. (In the Photos, You will see a grey pen lid. I didn't use it in the end as the LED didn't illuminate it enough). I had some PVC foam used for carpet underlay sitting around which I am going to use later for the skirt bumper. But what I did for this part was to cut out 6 diamond shapes, 3 peaces glued together, measured to fit snug inside both ends of the square tube to seal off the end, help form the slanted shape, and to help support the weapons (to be fitted later). You could of course use polystyrene or something similar.