Marley Bathroom Extractor Fan 5 Inch 5" In-line Ventilation Without Timer Flexible Ducting Kit Included Wall or Ceiling Mounted Kitchen Bathroom Shower Wet Room WC

Product Information

For completeness we will also cover how a standard bathroom extractor fan is wired up to it’s own switch and not an existing light switch. Wiring a Timed Extractor Fan That’s Turned on by an Existing Light Switch Firstly the cable is capped over using a PVC capping or piece of trunking. This then protects the cable in the wall. Firstly the supply from the 3-pole isolator switch should be connected in to the junction box using a suitable 1mm or 1.5mm twin and earth cable to the L, N and E terminals. If it isn’t and there is no official evidence to prove it’s been done by a professional with the required qualifications then in the event of any issues it is likely that your home insurance won’t be valid and if you come to sell your home then this can again cause huge issues.

There are several types of pipework but generally it’s best to use the PVC type as when using the aluminium round duct, the fan can echo through it when running creating quite a bit of noise, whereas the PVC type is generally silent. From the FCU, the 3-pole isolator switch is connected up using a suitable length of cable that’s stripped at both ends. It’s connected between the 2 units, neutral terminal to neutral terminal, live terminal to live terminal and earths to earths. When it comes to the type of extractor fan found in a bathroom there are essentially 2 different types; time switched and non-time switched. The main difference between the 2 is that with a timed switch, when the unit is turned off it will run on for a set amount of time to finish clearing the bathroom and when the time expires it then turns itself off. In terms of zones and where a switch can be fitted, this is generally best done in an area of zone 3, but you have to ensure that the correct rating of switch is also used, but your electrician will know for sure what to use. Tools and Products Needed to Wire a Timed Extractor Fan

As there are several different ways that a timed extractor fan is wired up, here we will cover the most common method; Taking a power feed from an existing bathroom light.

This briefly covers the 2 main different types of extractor but for a full and detailed run down, see our types of extractor fan project here. Types of Bathroom Fan Switch Configuration As with all electrical work, before anything is done at all, make sure that the circuit being worked on is fully isolated in the fuse box or consumer unit. To do so, either pull out the fuse or turn off the MCB. An extractor fan is an essential part of any bathroom as it helps to remove the excess moist and humid air produced by the shower and keep any condensation build up to a minimum. As we have stated above, if an extractor fan is being installed from scratch then this will need to be done by a qualified Part P registered electrician. However is you are simply replacing an existing broken unit then you are able to do this yourself.In a similar manner, the junction box for the live feed is then wired to the FCU, again, each wire connected to the correct live, neutral and earth terminals.

From the fused connection unit the installation must then have a 3-pole isolation switch that provides at least 3mm of separation on ALL live conductors when the switch is off. It must also be possible to isolate the fan by means of a pull cord switch inside the bathroom, or a fan isolation (3-pole) switch outside of the bathroom. Although not necessarily required by the regulations, it’s still a great idea to do. Also, ensure that you do actually use a 3-pole isolation switch as they are much more complete than a standard switch as they isolate all 3 wires that need isolating; permanent live, switched live and the neutral.If you are using a standard 3-pole pull cord switch, the switch is generally fixed to the ceiling and wired down from the top. However, this is normally when it’s being installed in an upstairs bathroom and there is decent access to the top of the ceiling from the loft. In this instance, the switch live (SL) connection is not used but it is recommended that a 3-pole switch is still fitted as it would allow the circuit to be reconfigured to work with the light switch in future if desired. In terms of each end when installing an inline fan, you will need both internal and external extractor fan vents. Again, if installing a axial fan through the wall you may need to chase out a section of wall to run the cable to the fan. Again, if you are working on the ground floor then you may need to pop up some floor boards from above to run cables and access existing lighting circuits.

As it’s in a bathroom, although it’s not required, the belt and braces approach is to fit a 3-pole isolation switch so that all potential live points; permanent live, switched live and neutral are isolated when the switch is turned off. The final job is to then do the finishing works. If you have created any chases these need to be filled. When connecting up the pipework make sure that you first tape the pipe to the fan body using aluminium tape and then also screw up a large jubilee clip around the pipe. This will ensure a full and compete seal.Another point to be aware of is that in many installations a 3-pole isolation switch is fitted to the fan to allow it to be totally isolated from its electrical supply in the event it needs maintenance work. As with the steps above, either a shower isolator switch is used that is normally installed outside the bathroom above the door or it’s possible to use a 3-pole pull cord switch that is usually installed in zone 3 inside the bathroom.